Kefalas, Apokoronas (Crete): The Old Village

Kefalas in the Apokoronas

Kefalas sits in the Apokoronas on the north side of Crete, west of Georgioupolis and east of Chania. The district is shaped like a triangle, set away from the highway, green and quiet, with fewer houses and a more traditional life than the Akrotiri peninsula next to Chania. The Apokoronas is full of olive groves, woodlands and farms, with fine beaches such as Almyrida and Kalives and the long beach of Georgioupolis, about 10 kilometres long.

The old village of Kefalas

Kefalas is over 800 years old, thought to have been founded around 1175 AD in Byzantine times under Emperor Michalis Komnenos, and it was under Ottoman rule from 1669 until 1898. Within its bounds stand many historic buildings from Venetian and later times, some beautifully restored and others in ruins. It is a large village but quiet, with squares, old trees, a stone windmill, a couple of tavernas (one serving Illy coffee) and two small supermarkets; one sells organic food and vegetables.

The churches of Kefalas

Kefalas has around 30 churches, more than any other village in Crete Hans has visited. Most date from the Ottoman occupation, when land was not confiscated by the Turkish rulers if a church stood on it. The village itself is pretty, built of old stone with just a few tasteful new houses, and the people are friendly, greeting visitors as they walk through the streets.

How to reach Kefalas

Kefalas is easy to reach. From the new national road, drive into Georgioupolis on the Rethymnon–Chania road and turn left about 25 metres before the village square; a few metres on, a right turn is signed for Vamos. Follow that road up the hill and you meet the sign to Kefalas on the right after about 5 to 10 minutes. You can also enter from the other side, from Vamos, as the village is clearly signed and hard to miss.

Where to stay near Kefalas

Around Kefalas and the wider Apokoronas are several villas with private pools, from restored historic houses to modern hilltop homes.

Villa Sophia's House, Aspro

Villa Sophia's House is an intimate villa on a hill near the seaside resort of Almirida. Hans stayed here in September 2008 and loved it, for the views from the terraces and pool, a beautiful bathroom, comfortable living space and three bedrooms with extra-large beds. It felt homely and welcoming.

Villa Giorgos, Gavalochori

Villa Giorgos stands in a very secluded spot in the middle of a pine forest, on a hill at the end of a short dirt track on the edge of Gavalochori, close to the coastal resort of Almyrida. Its verandas look over the forest, with distant views of the sea in front of Almyrida in Souda Bay. Behind the house is a private pool with sunbeds, chairs, a swing and a barbecue, surrounded by a low wall and pine trees. Both nearby villages have good tavernas, supermarkets and a bakery.

Villa Filitsa, Kefalas

Villa Filitsa is a historic stone house in Kefalas, close to Georgioupolis and Vamos, open all year round. The oldest part dates from Venetian times, with sections added through history, and it was once used by the Turkish general commander of Crete. It has been carefully restored by Canea Properties and is a listed historic monument. There is a private pool, and the villa sleeps 10 people across two bedrooms, two lofts and a separate apartment.

Villa Renata, Megala Chorafia

Villa Renata is a special villa in the Apokoronas, visited by Hans in October 2008. It is deceptively large, about 175 m², with three bedrooms downstairs: two doubles, each with its own balcony, and a twin with a door to the patio by the pool. One bedroom has a private bathroom and a small study. All rooms have a TV and air conditioning, and the ground floor holds a tasteful bathroom with a big bath, double basins and a washing machine.

Villa Amalia, Megala Chorafia

Villa Amalia is a large villa with a 50 m² private pool on a hill next to the village of Megala Chorafia, near Chania, 13 kilometres away, and Kalives in the north of Crete. It is easy to reach: coming from Chania towards the east you pass Megala Chorafia, and just after the village exit a sign reads "Villa Amalia next exit 100 m", from where a narrow but good road leads into the hills to the villa and its own parking area.