Frequently Asked Questions about the Greek Islands

Do you keep any secret places to yourself?

Everything Hans knows about the Greek islands is already on this site. He keeps no secret places or private tips for special readers.

He writes each place as he sees it: he says so when he likes a place and says so when he does not, restaurants included. You may disagree, and that does not change his personal experience. He cannot tell you which island to choose or which islands to combine, because everyone likes different things, so read the information here and make up your own mind.

The hearts he puts behind an island on the main page are a guideline, but they are purely personal. Hans does not do house visits or phone calls, because he is not a travel agent. If you travel to Crete and stay in a particular village, click the links to the villages and beaches to see what each place is like and whether it is near you. He does not have time to plan a full program for your trip, so find the places you like and visit those.

Do you have suggestions for island-hopping?

Hans has many island-hopping ideas, and here are a few that are not too difficult; there are plenty more options:

• Crete: always a good choice, but watch where you go and check the Crete page. You can spend a whole holiday here; if you insist on a second island, Gavdos or Santorini are the easiest.
• Combine Samos with one or two friendly islands like Patmos and Leros to the south, or Ikaria and Fourni to the southwest.
• From Athens, sail out of Rafina harbour and combine, for instance, Andros, Tinos, Mykonos and Syros.
• From Mykonos: Andros, Tinos, Syros, Paros, Antiparos, Naxos or Santorini.
• From Santorini: Paros, Naxos, Mykonos and Ios, or the route Hans plans for 2011, Santorini, Milos, Kimolos and Folegandros.

For the Cyclades or the Dodecanese, find your own combination, because Hans cannot decide for you which islands to visit. Each island on the site has its own information, so you can judge whether it suits you. He puts tips inside each island page rather than answering every message personally.

Ferries from Piraeus and between the Greek islands

Ferry timetables change every season, so check the current schedules online; fly2greece does not maintain ferry times. If a connection does not appear, you are either looking too early or there is no service on that route.

Hans cannot track every connection and departure time himself. Schedules are often not published or approved yet, so an early check may tell you nothing. If you book a hotel on an island, the owner usually knows the boat times, routes and crossing lengths.

Many travellers fly to Athens and take the boat from Piraeus. Hans instead uses Rafina, the other harbour of Athens. Rafina sits close to the airport, so you avoid driving through Athens. Regular buses run from the airport to Rafina, and a taxi is not expensive. The one drawback is that Rafina has boats only in the morning and late afternoon, going to Andros, Tinos and Mykonos, and occasionally Evia and Paros. From Tinos or Mykonos you can reach many other islands, such as Syros, Paros and Naxos. Rafina itself is a pleasant small coastal town with good harbour restaurants and a beach, so an overnight stop there is no hardship.

Greek ferries come as high-speed boats and normal ferries. Hans prefers the normal ferries: they cost about half the high-speed fare, and the high-speed boats are smaller, have little fresh air and cause seasickness in rough water. On a normal boat you can sit on deck and watch the islands go by. Some tickets, such as Crete to Italy or Corfu, can be booked ahead on the Greek Ferries website.

Will it rain when I visit, and what is the temperature?

Check a weather site for average temperatures and rainfall in Greece; Hans cannot tell you whether it will rain during your trip.

If he could predict it, he would plan his own holidays for blue skies every day. He too has met the occasional rainy or cloudy day in Greece.

What are the best periods to visit the Greek islands?

Travel in May, June, September or October for the best balance, outside the busy season. July and August get very busy and very hot.

In July and August accommodation is harder to find and more expensive, so book a hotel before you leave. In May and June the islands are green and full of flowers, and the sea is a little cold but still fine for swimming; jump straight in rather than testing it with your toe. In September and October the islands are drier and less green, but the sea is warmer. Outside the season, from November to April, expect anything from thunderstorms, wind and even snow to lovely sunny days when everyone heads to the beach.

Rent a car when you arrive on any Greek island, because you otherwise miss the most beautiful places. On large islands such as Crete or Lesbos a car is essential, since there is so much to see. The car-hire button at the top of the page links to Hans's regular suppliers of good cars, and a car gives you the freedom to reach the finest beaches and villages.

What are your favourite beaches? My top 13

Here are 13 of Hans's favourite Greek beaches, a personal selection from the roughly 40 islands he has visited so far. Most are quiet, some deserted, and naturism is possible on most of them; check the website for details.

• Despotico island beaches (Despotico is a deserted island)
• Polyaigos beaches (also a deserted island)
• The naturist beaches around Tris Ekklisies (Crete)
• Naturist beach of Tertsa (Crete)
• Tsoutsouros beach (Crete)
• The naturist beach of Achivodolimno (Milos)
• The (partly) naturist beach of Lagada (Crete)
• Rodakino (naturist) beaches (Crete)
• Fyriplaka Beach (Milos)
• Koumeika Beach (Samos)
• Agios Pavlos Beach (Crete)
• Ellinika Beach (Kimolos)
• Xerokampos Beach (Crete)
• Ilingas Beach (Crete)
• Kalo Nero Beach (Crete)

Several beaches on Naxos are also very nice.

What are your favourite islands? My top 15

These are Hans's 15 favourite Greek islands, a personal ranking:

• Crete: nothing beats it, beautiful, diverse and with so much to see.
• Milos: super-friendly people, awesome beaches, a magical landscape, great food, an unrivalled coastline and good sights.
• Despotico: a deserted island reached from Antiparos, with empty beaches and a historical site.
• Polyaigos: shares third place, also deserted, with blue water and empty white beaches, extremely pretty.
• Iraklia: in the Small Cyclades, peaceful and with such friendly inhabitants.
• Alonissos and Skyros: two still fairly quiet, authentic islands in the Sporades, with nice beaches and friendly people.
• Thirassia: step back in time, good for walks, with a large quiet pebble beach and pretty churches.
• Schinoussa: one of the small Cyclades islands, quiet and with plenty of beaches.
• Naxos: a reasonably large island with pretty, sandy beaches.
• Anafi: quiet, with nice sandy beaches and naturism.
• Gavdos: a small island south of Crete with many pretty sandy beaches and naturism.
• Samos: a large island with a good variety of beaches and many historic sites.
• Santorini: sites, views and pretty villages, plus plenty of quiet beaches if you rent a car.
• Antiparos: friendly people, plenty of beaches, a beautiful cave and the boat to Despotico.
• Patmos: friendly people, the monastery, good walks and pleasant small beaches.
• Paros: friendly people, some rather nice beaches and historical sites.

What are the most picturesque towns and villages? My top 10

These are Hans's 10 most interesting and picturesque Greek towns and villages:

• Corfu Town (Corfu or Kerkyra island)
• Chania (Crete)
• Rhodos Town (Rhodos island)
• Ermoupolis (Syros, Cyclades)
• Skopelos Town (Skopelos, Sporades)
• Mykonos Town (Mykonos, Cyclades)
• Symi Town (Symi, Dodecanese)
• Antiparos Town (Antiparos, Cyclades)
• Folegandros Chora (Folegandros, Cyclades)
• Oia (Santorini, Cyclades)

Why go island-hopping, and what should you not do?

Hans loves island-hopping because the Greek islands are all so different and because it is easy to jump on a ferry once you feel finished with one. He travels with only 5 or 6 kilos of hand luggage and no suitcase, which keeps him mobile and ready to move to the next island. He built this page because he is Greek-island-crazy and wanted every site he uses, including the island maps and the Greek ferry schedules, gathered in one place. His favourite islands are Milos, Despotico, Polyaigos, Thirassia, Mykonos, Tinos, Antiparos, Anafi, Patmos, Paros, Samos and Crete, or perhaps an island he has not seen yet.

When you island-hop, stick to one island group rather than crossing from the Cyclades to the Dodecanese. The distances are sometimes long, and you can end up spending your whole holiday on a ferry. Within one group the connections run more often, so it is easier to return to where you started and fly home. Only with plenty of time can you go wherever you want.

For a quiet spot, first travel outside the high season. If that is not possible, some islands and places stay relatively quiet. It usually gets quieter away from the main village and the tourist-heavy coastal settlements. Many people stay in the village where the ferry docks, but for peace it is better to book on the far side of the island, or take a taxi and ask the driver for a suggestion. Pack light, rent a car and look around for a village you really like.

Almost every ferry village has one or more car rentals. Only at Donoussa, Gavdos and Anafi could Hans not rent a car in the harbour. Those islands have only a few hotels, so book ahead, as you should in high season everywhere, because the nicest and cheapest hotels go first. Donoussa, Gavdos and Anafi are also the most quiet islands Hans has visited, with very little ferry traffic, so check the schedules before you sail. The south of Crete, the south of Antiparos and the islands of Lesbos, Andros and Chios also have quiet spots. On Crete, avoid Chersonissos and Malia and large parts of the north coast; the villages of Agia Pelagia, Bali, Georgioupolis and Analipsi in the north of Crete are intimate and pretty. Kos and Rhodes Town can get busy. Hans does not like Kos, but he finds Rhodes and Rhodes Town charming: Rhodes Town is beautiful and full of old glory, and the island of Rhodes has large beaches with plenty of space.

What are the prettiest islands in Greece, and where do I go?

Hans considers Crete the prettiest Greek island, though beauty is always a matter of opinion. What makes an island attractive is not only its landscape, villages and beaches, but also its atmosphere and its people. Crete is the biggest island and offers something for everyone: culture, museums, excavations, nightlife and beautiful beaches, so it is the total package.

The biggest mistake is to stay in one spot, so rent a car and explore. Hans has spent more than a year on Crete in total and has still seen only a fraction of it, and one day he wants to buy a house there. Choose your Crete village with care and check the site for tips, or you may land in a tourist trap surrounded by drunk teenagers. For a lively base in a good way, try Agia Galini, Agia Pelagia or Mirtos; for quiet places and fine beaches, Crete has many, so browse the Crete pages.

You can also look at his top favourite islands above, but the ranking stays personal. Hans cannot tell you which island to visit, because every island is different and he is not you. Some travellers see many islands and then get hooked on one and keep returning; he feels this with Crete, Paros and Antiparos, and Samos and Patmos. He has not seen every island yet either. Often you love an island for the local people, the atmosphere or the people you meet, so do not ask which island is perfect for you; take a look around the site and see what appeals.

Other islands are also worth a visit. Andros and Lesbos share Crete's green, mountainous nature. Tinos, between Mykonos and Andros in the Cyclades, is the opposite, brown and dry with scattered oases, and its old anti-erosion terraces give it a beautiful landscape. The south of Paros has many small beaches that stay empty because you reach them on foot. Naxos has quiet spots, and even party-island Mykonos has some, though you need a car. The tourist money on Mykonos and Naxos is not spent on the roads, which are often very bad or unpaved. Overall the northern islands, such as Alonissos, Skopelos and Skiathos in the Sporades, and Lesbos, Corfu and Zakynthos, are greener than the southern ones. The big exception is Crete, one of the most southern islands yet very green; only Gavdos, Gavdopoula and some satellite islands of Crete lie further south. Another favourite is Samos: green, mountainous, with beautiful bays and friendly people. Nearby Patmos, with its stunning views, cozy beaches and lovely people, is also a must.

Which island has the friendliest people?

The islands with the kindest people, in Hans's view, are Antiparos, Samos, Milos, Mykonos, Patmos, Leros and Crete. The people make the island: you first need a basis of a great hotel, nice beaches, good weather and delicious food, but the atmosphere decides whether you like a place.

The people differ a little on every island. His do-nots were Santorini and Donoussa. On Santorini he found the people unpleasant the first time, though it was the end of the season and 40 degrees Celsius, and they were actually quite nice on a second visit. On Donoussa there was a language barrier, which he was later told had improved. Donoussa is a very attractive small island, quiet and pretty, where he found a lovely empty beach after a long walk.

Hans has since returned to Santorini, was pleasantly surprised and even loved it, finding pretty quiet beaches, making an interesting trip to nearby Thirassia and enjoying a superb base at Leandros Traditional Houses, which is on the Santorini page.

Nightlife on the Greek islands

For nightlife, Mykonos, Rhodes and Crete let you party until early morning, and most island capitals offer some entertainment.

Some islands are for resting on the beach and others for partying, and island-hopping lets you combine the two. Even small islands like Antiparos have a square with a few nice bars, so nobody needs to feel bored. Hans himself usually prefers a quiet drink on his balcony overlooking the sea.

He has started restaurant guides for some islands, so far Mykonos, Lesbos, Andros and, in part, Paros and Antiparos, with more islands added since and still more to follow. He does not plan to write guides for discos and bars.

Food and drinks in Greece: supermarkets and restaurants

Eating out in Greece is much cheaper than in the Netherlands, even though supermarket prices are a little higher there than in Dutch shops. Mykonos is the exception, yet even there you can find a cheap bite; see the restaurant guide for the island.

Coffee is fairly expensive, so Hans brings a French press and makes his own, which is perfect first thing in the morning and saves a lot of money. Drinks are good news: Greek spirits and wines such as ouzo, metaxa, a kind of cognac, and raki, made from grapes, are very cheap.

The weather in Greece and on the Greek islands

Greek weather is generally warmer than most of Europe, with beautiful days in every season.

In July and August, mainly in the Cyclades, a wind called the meltemi often blows; it cools you on hot days, but can also send you looking for a sheltered beach. In May and October a bad day with clouds and a splash of rain turns up now and then, though it rarely lasts long, and the sea in May is still a little fresh. Winters vary, from sudden thunderstorms and wind to lovely sunny days.

Hans only describes this weather; he does not make it and cannot predict it exactly. In the end it is a gamble, because no one controls the weather.

Naturism and naturist beaches on the Greek islands

Formal naturism is mostly not allowed on the Greek islands, but topless sunbathing on beaches outside the villages usually is. Crete, Lesbos, Samos, Mykonos, Paros and Antiparos each have one or more naturist beaches, and on most islands you can find a way, often by walking to a secluded beach and undressing there.

Most beaches where nudism is accepted are on Antiparos and in the south of Crete; south Crete has one official nudist beach, Filaki, but on most other southern beaches everyone undresses anyway, sometimes on a separate section at the far end. On beaches inside the villages you are expected to wear a swimsuit, because Greece is still a traditional and religious country, though a friendly and tolerant one.

Do not expect a lively village with restaurants and bars next to a beautiful sandy nudist beach, because lively and naturist do not go together. These beaches tend to be remote, sometimes with accommodation nearby but without evening entertainment, since most people who prefer them want quiet away from large families and screaming children. Naturist beaches are usually not the best beaches on the island, and as soon as houses appear the naturist beach disappears. A few villages combine some nightlife with a naturist beach within walking distance: Kokkari on Samos, Tertsa on Crete, where you book in Mirtos, and Antiparos Village. The beautiful sandy naturist beaches are mostly on Crete, though quiet ones; Hans's favourites are Tertsa and Agios Pavlos, and you can also try Molyvos on Lesbos.

Special or cheap hotels on the Greek islands

Hans lists his favourite hotels, apartments, studios and rooms on the site, each with the owner's email or phone so you can book directly. He has stayed in many over the years and keeps returning to the same places on some islands: Anna on Paros, another Anna on Tinos, Lilian on Antiparos, Ioanna in Limnionas on Samos, and Jakoumina on Patmos.

On Lesbos he has several favourites, including a fantastic beach house in Mystegna and a couple of other good, cheap hotels, plus two hotels on Crete he always returns to. A special page collects the hotels, and he has persuaded some owners to make an offer just for this website.

The range runs from simple rooms to luxury villas that are not by definition expensive, such as Villa Sophia and the stone house at Kastania Lodge, both on Crete. He likes variety in where he stays, but most of these places share a peaceful setting.

I am looking for a house on a deserted beach

The closest Hans knows to a house on a deserted beach is the Mystegna Beach Houses, listed on his Lesbos page. He does not know of any others, so keep looking.

Do I have to book my accommodation ahead?

Book ahead in high season, July and August, and take your chances the rest of the year.

If you have set your heart on one special little hotel, reserve it whatever the month, because the cheaper places sometimes sell out and you then pay more than you expected. Some hotels and apartments fill far in advance, so two or three months ahead, or even a year, can be too late, while other complexes sit empty at the very same time. It varies from island to island, so there is no single sensible answer.

Places for travelling with small children, kids or teenagers

For small children Hans's two main tips are Agia Pelagia on Crete, full of toddlers and young children, and the island of Antiparos, where the beaches are very shallow and there are many children. Both places, like almost everywhere in Greece, welcome them warmly.

Other good spots that come to mind are the village of Alyki on Paros, the villages of Bali, Almyrida and Georgioupolis on Crete, and perhaps Pythagorion on Samos. Avoid Chersonissos and Malia on Crete, which suit teenagers and heavy drinking in the evening.

Families with teenagers usually have the opposite problem, the parents wanting quiet and the children wanting something to do; for them, look at the front page of Crete, or at Samos and Patmos, Lesbos, or Paros, Naxos and Antiparos. Other options exist, so browse the site and see what you like. Hans cannot pick the ideal combination for you, and he has not stayed in every hotel, so he cannot judge places he has not seen.

I am looking for camping or free camping

Hans cannot help much with camping, because he has never stayed at one and does not intend to. He knows there are campsites on many islands, such as Mykonos, Antiparos and Paros, but he has never visited them.

Free camping is a separate matter: it used to be allowed on the beaches of Anafi, which he heard is no longer tolerated, and he believes it still happens on Gavdos. Situations change often and he cannot keep track of them all. Many Greeks dislike free camping on beaches, and he understands why: tents make a beach look ugly, and not everyone leaves it clean, so you sometimes find toilet paper in the bushes nearby. There are no naturist campsites in Greece.

I travel in high season and want a quiet place, where can I go?

For quiet in high season, try Hans's list of top peace-and-quiet accommodations, a selection of more than 10 hotels and apartments set away from mass tourism.

He gives no guarantee, since he never travels in high season himself, but you have a good chance there. A cheap last-minute deal can sound tempting, so check where you would actually end up before you book. If peace is your priority, look for that first, then buy only the flight and book the accommodation separately. This can cost more than a last-minute package, so it is an option if you can stretch the budget.

I want a quiet, green island easy to reach from Athens, where do I go?

The easier an island is to reach, the more people you find there, so a quiet, green island near Athens usually means more effort, planning ahead and more time on ferries.

The greener islands lie mostly in the north of Greece, the Ionian islands and the Sporades, but Crete, Thassos, Andros, Lesbos and Samos are also quite green. Hans cannot point you to the perfect beachfront accommodation on every island; if he has not written about it, he does not know it and cannot help.

Plane tickets or a holiday package?

Hans usually buys just a plane ticket rather than a package.

On larger islands such as Crete or Lesbos he arranges a hire car at the airport, and on smaller islands reached by ferry the hotel owner usually picks you up. Give the owner your flight details or the name of your boat, and they will meet you at the airport or the harbour. Booking the flight and the hotels separately is normally cheaper than a combined trip across several islands.

Car rental in Greece and on the Greek islands

Hans rents a car on every island he visits, even for just 1 or 2 days, because that is how you reach the most beautiful and peaceful places.

Days by the hotel pool or a nearby beach are fine, but he likes to see as much as possible. On the large islands of Crete and Lesbos a hire car is a must, and he thinks a car is essential on every island. The page links to reliable car-rental companies on Crete, Tinos, Samos, Santorini and Lesbos, where he always rents.

Do not rent through your travel agency's hostess, who is likely to charge you twice as much; arrange the car yourself. Hans usually reserves a car, has it delivered to the airport and leaves it there on return, which works if you pre-book.

I would rather rent a bicycle or make walks, now what?

For cycling, the flattest and most popular island is Kos, where Hans once did some cycling long ago. Paros and Antiparos also suit bikes, though on Antiparos he rented a bike for three days and barely rode it.

You can rent bicycles on the islands, so sort it out once you arrive. Most Greek islands are mountainous and, to Hans's taste, not ideal for long walks or bike rides. Other places worth a chance are Lesbos around Skala Kallonis and the Gulfs of Kallonis and Gera, most of the Cycladic islands for coastal walks and rides such as Naxos, Paros, Mykonos and Andros, the southeast of Crete and parts of the Apokoronas away from the northern highway, and parts of Patmos and Samos.

Hans admits he is too lazy for this and is not the best person to ask about walking and cycling routes.

I want to rent a boat, where can I do this?

Hans knows you can rent a small motor boat on Corfu, Skiathos and Antiparos. For Corfu and Skiathos the contact email addresses are on his website, so you can ask about them.

He does not know where to charter a crewless sailing boat or a large motor boat, so you are on your own there. On Milos, though, you can rent a private sailing boat; check his Milos page.

Should I book ferry tickets and hotels ahead?

Book ferry tickets and hotels ahead when you travel in busy periods. In high season, July and August, you can end up without a ferry seat or a hotel room.

High-speed ferries have limited seats and sell out fast, so buy those tickets ahead, or a few days early; for an A-to-B hop, buy them first thing when you reach island A. Even outside high season, do not wait until just before departure for a high-speed boat, which once left Hans without a seat in May. On weekends, when people from Athens take a short break, ferries and hotels fill quickly.

If a hotel is cheap, highly recommended or simply small, book ahead once you know your plan to avoid disappointment. Family rooms and large apartments for groups are scarcer and harder to find, so reserve those early too.

The stray cats and dogs of Greece

If you want to help the stray cats and dogs on the Greek islands, contact the Mirtos Animal Project on Crete or Animal Care Samos on Samos rather than Hans.

He sees the problem clearly: dogs tied to barrels, dogs left on balconies in their own mess, dogs with little or no food and water, and homeless dogs and cats in large numbers. Not all Greeks treat their pets the way you might at home, because the mentality is different. Some people take one dog abroad for a better life, but for each one rescued three more appear the next year, so it feels like mopping the floor with the tap running.

Hans does not fly dogs or cats back to the Netherlands himself, but someone at the Mirtos Animal Project may know a person who can, or may be able to help.

About the website

The navigation buttons on the left of the site lead to every island Hans covers:

• Alonissos, Amorgos, Anafi, Andros, Antiparos, Chios, Corfu, Crete, Delos, Diplo, Donoussa, Gavdos, Ikaria, Ios, Kalymnos, Koufonissia, Kos, Lesbos, Mykonos, Naxos, Nikouria, Paros, Patmos, Rematonisi, Rhodes, Samos, Santorini, Skiathos, Skopelos, Spinalonga, Symi, Syros, Telendos, Thassos, Tinos and Zakynthos

The site also links to real estate on Corfu, Crete, Lesbos and Greece and in the Peloponnesos, plus tips for hotels, nice beaches and car rental across the Greek islands. Because readers often ask about naturist beaches, there are a few special pages for nudism as well. Hans hopes everyone has a wonderful time in Greece; if you have tips, nice photos or a story to share, send them and he will put them on the site, with your name if you like.