Chania Villages: The Apokoronas, Akrotiri & South Coast

The Chania region keeps hundreds of traditional villages, from the green Apokoronas hills around Vamos and Kefalas to the Akrotiri peninsula and the car-free villages of the south coast. This guide gathers the most rewarding ones to visit, grouped by area: the Apokoronas east of Chania, the Akrotiri peninsula, the north-coast villages, and the remote south around Loutro and Chora Sfakion.

Region

West Crete

Greenest area

Apokoronas

Capital village

Vamos

Car-free

Loutro

Souda

Souda is the ferry port of Chania, on the entrance of the Akrotiri peninsula in the best-protected bay of Crete. Ferries leave here for the mainland, Rhodes and other islands. The islet of Agios Nikolaos, with a Venetian fortress, sits out in the bay. Souda is a working town rather than a resort, with a large military presence. The Souda Bay War Cemetery holds 1,527 Allied soldiers who died in the 1941 Battle of Crete, and it draws many visitors from the United Kingdom.

Vamos

Vamos is the capital of the Apokoronas and one of its larger villages, 30 km from Chania. In 1995 a group of villagers began a project to preserve the traditional way of life, restoring old stone buildings into guest houses with European Union funds. The village has mini-markets, tavernas, local shops, a large church and many old trees. The Karydi Monastery of Agios Georgios stands about 2 km east.

Kefalas

Kefalas is an old hill village in the heart of the Apokoronas, west of Georgioupoli and east of Chania. It is over 800 years old and is thought to have been founded around 1175 AD. Inside its bounds stand many historic Venetian and Ottoman buildings, some restored and some in ruins. The village reportedly holds some 30 churches, more than any other Chania village. It has squares, old trees, a stone windmill, tavernas and two supermarkets, and the people are friendly.

Megala Chorafia

Megala Chorafia is a small village near the beaches and around the corner from Chania, about 13 km east of town. It has three tavernas, a kafenion and a mini-market. The village serves visitors to the ancient town of Aptera nearby and to the Turkish castle of Izzedine. Crossroads here lead to several parts of Crete.

Kalami

Kalami is a small coastal village just east of Souda, below the hill with the Izzedine fortress. It has a few small quiet beaches, one sandy and some pebble, looking over the bay of Souda. Chania is 10 km away and Kalives a 5-minute drive. Kalami stays very quiet, with holiday houses at the shore but few large complexes.

Kalamaki

Kalamaki is a small coastal village between Chania and Agia Marina, a few kilometres west of Chania. It has a small church, a snackbar on a pier and a view of the islet of Agii Theodori. A 2.5 km organised sandy beach lies at the far end of the village. It suits people who want to be near Chania town but still on the beach. A regular bus runs into Chania.

Chorafakia

Chorafakia is a village on the Akrotiri peninsula, about 13 km north-east of Chania. It sits 1 km inland of Tersanas beach, which was once its harbour. The village holds a few shops and tavernas, and the beaches of Kalathas and Stavros lie close by. Buses from Chania stop here.

Kournas

Kournas is a traditional village at 160 m, about 4 km from Lake Kournas and 8 km from Georgioupoli. Unlike the busy lake, the village sees almost no tourism. About 500 people live here, with a large church and narrow streets. The Byzantine church of Agios Georgios holds 13th-century frescoes.

Vrises

Vrises is a green Apokoronas village where the north-coast road meets the road to Sfakia, near Georgioupoli. Giant plane trees shade a river that runs through the square. Vrises is famous for its yoghurt and goat cheese. It has a bakery, markets, tavernas, a bank and a petrol station. The name is also spelled Vrysses or Vrisses.

Loutro

Loutro is a car-free village on the south coast, 75 km from Chania, reached only by boat or on foot. It stands in a quiet bay sheltered by an island, at the foot of the White Mountains. Loutro sits on the site of ancient Finix, the port of Anopolis. Tavernas and rooms line the harbour, but there are no large hotels. Boats link it with Chora Sfakion in about 15 minutes.

Galatas

Galatas is a village about 5 km from Chania on the road to Kolymbari. It has tavernas, kafenions, supermarkets, a butcher, a bakery and a large white church on the square. Galatas sits in a fertile valley of orange trees and olive groves. Footpaths run through the greenery around the Palia Vrisi area.

Kastellos

Kastellos is an authentic hill village at 252 m in the eastern Apokoronas, just outside Georgioupoli. It is built like a castle, which gives it its name. Villagers moved up here around 1800 to escape Ottoman violence, and much of the old part is now deserted. Kastellos stays very quiet, with gardens, free-range chickens and fine views over the sea and Georgioupoli.

Chora Sfakion

Chora Sfakion is a south-coast harbour village 60 km from Chania, with 400 to 500 inhabitants. It was a centre of resistance in Venetian, Turkish and German times. Ferries leave for Agia Roumeli, Loutro, Sougia, Paleochora and the island of Gavdos. Late in the afternoon the boats bring in walkers from the Samaria Gorge. The village has beaches, tavernas, markets and a diving centre.

Agia Roumeli

Agia Roumeli is a car-free coastal village in south-west Crete, at the mouth of the Samaria Gorge. Around 100 people live here permanently. It is mainly known as the end of the Samaria Gorge walk, and about 350,000 people pass through each year. Ferries link it with Loutro, Chora Sfakion, Paleochora and sometimes Sougia. A pebble beach with sunbeds lies beside the village.