Monemvasia: The Byzantine Castle Town on a Rock off the Peloponnese
Monemvasia is a Byzantine fortress town on a rock island off the south-east coast of the Peloponnese, joined to the Greek mainland by a causeway about 200 metres long. A city of Laconians grew here in the 6th century AD, hidden from the sea and reached through a single narrow entrance; today its medieval walls, stone lanes and surviving Byzantine churches make it one of the best-preserved castle towns in Greece.
- Region
- SE Peloponnese
- Causeway
- ~200 m
- Founded
- 6th century AD
- Churches
- 4 of 40 survive
The rock and its history
Monemvasia stands on a rock island off the south coast of the Peloponnese, in ancient times thought to have held a Minoan trading post. A narrow strip of land once tied the rock to the mainland, but an earthquake in the 4th century AD broke it loose; a causeway about 200 metres long now carries the road across. Residents of Laconia, fleeing hordes from the north, founded a city on the rock in the 6th century AD, during the reign of the Byzantine Emperor Mauricius. The sea hid the town from view, and a single narrow strip of land gave the only way in — mone emvasia, “the single entrance”, names the place. Monemvasia stayed Byzantine for about 700 years and threw back many attacks until the Franks took it in 1249. Ten years later it returned to Byzantine hands and became the main port of the Despotate of Mystra. When the Turks overran the surrounding area in 1460, Monemvasia dodged the fall by placing itself first under the protection of the Pope and then of the Venetians. The Venetian garrison left in 1540 and the Turks moved in; the Venetians held the rock once more between 1690 and 1715.
The castle town, walls and churches
The medieval town covers a plateau on the south-east side of the rock, about 300 metres wide and 1 kilometre long. Its imposing fortress, its city walls and several Byzantine churches still stand: the town once held 40 churches, and 4 of them survive. The oldest, the church of St. Paul from 956, now houses the museum. Narrow streets thread between houses of natural stone, and restorers have turned many of the medieval buildings into hotels, so visitors sleep inside the walls they came to see.
Beaches near Monemvasia
A long gravel beach begins on the mainland directly above the bridge that links the rock to the rest of Greece. It carries a row of accommodation and facilities — restaurants and hire of sunbeds and parasols. Pebble Mandraki Beach lies beside Monemvasia town, and the sandy Ampelakia beach sits about 5 kilometres away near the village of Xifias. Boats and day trips also reach the beach of Simos on Elafonisos and the port of Gerakas farther along the Laconian coast.
Where to stay
Monemvasia rewards a night inside the castle, where restored stone mansions serve as guesthouses and small hotels; beach-front rooms and a spa retreat sit on the mainland nearby. Book ahead in summer, when the walled town fills quickly.
| Property | Where | Distance | Best for |
|---|---|---|---|
| Moni Emvasis Luxury Suites | Inside the fortress | Gefyra 2 km | Stone luxury suites, sea views |
| Likinia Hotel | Inside the castle, Chrysafitissa Sq. | 250 m from the gate | Traditional castle rooms |
| Kinsterna Hotel & Spa | Restored Byzantine mansion | Overlooks the castle | Spa, spring-fed pool |
| Venetia Apartments | Monemvasia town | 150 m to Mandraki Beach | Self-catering by the sea |
| Paraschou Guesthouse | Edge of Monemvasia | 50 m from the sea | Rooms near the port of Gefyra |
| Akti Nefeli | Xifias | 30 m to Ampelakia Beach | Beachfront rooms |
Moni Emvasis Luxury Suites
Moni Emvasis fills a group of private stone-built suites set inside the medieval fortress, with panoramic views over the sea. Each suite follows the local style with arched walls and wooden beamed ceilings, and comes with a furnished balcony, a flat-screen satellite TV, a living area with fireplace and a minibar; the bathrooms hold bathrobes, slippers and free toiletries. A restaurant serves local cuisine for lunch and dinner and an a-la-carte breakfast, and 2 bars pour drinks and cocktails. Gefyra lies 2 kilometres away, and free parking sits near the premises.
Likinia Hotel
Likinia stands inside the castle at Chrysafitissa Square, a stone-built hotel with unobstructed views to the Aegean Sea. The rooms follow the local architecture with handmade furniture and traditional fireplaces, and hold a satellite LCD TV, air conditioning and a minibar; the marble bathrooms carry signature toiletries and a hairdryer. Staff welcome guests with a bottle of wine and soft drinks and serve a homemade breakfast of local products by the fireplace. The hotel sits 250 metres from the castle gate.
Kinsterna Hotel & Spa
Kinsterna occupies a restored Byzantine rural mansion with views of the castle and the Aegean, named “Most Popular Mansion” by the Reader's Choice Awards 2010 of Conde Nast Traveller. The individually designed rooms carry flat-screen TVs, bathrobes, slippers and a pillow menu. A freshwater spring rises in the basement and forms a river-like swimming pool with private relaxation areas, while the spa runs treatments that include a traditional hammam and the gourmet restaurant cooks Mediterranean dishes from the mansion's own gardens. The hotel also makes a base for the beach of Simos at Elafonisos, the port of Gerakas and the Kastania Caves.
Venetia Apartments
Venetia sets its self-catering apartments in a garden of palm trees and roses in Monemvasia town, 150 metres from pebble Mandraki Beach. Each air-conditioned unit opens onto a private balcony with views over the Aegean and the castle, and holds a kitchenette with dining area, a living room, an electric oven, a fridge and a TV. Restaurants, supermarkets and bars stand within a 5-minute walk, the castle lies 2 kilometres away, and Xifias village and beach are 6 kilometres off. Free parking sits on site.
Paraschou Guesthouse
Paraschou builds its rooms on the edge of Monemvasia, across from the historical rock and only 50 metres from the sea. The rooms lay tiled floors, and some add wooden roofs and wooden furnishings; free Wi-Fi, air conditioning and a fridge come as standard, and some units add a full kitchen. The guesthouse keeps a spacious parking area, the port of Gefyra sits a 5-minute walk away and the Monemvasia port a 10-minute walk.
Akti Nefeli
Akti Nefeli stands 30 metres from the sandy Ampelakia beach at Xifias, 5 kilometres from the castle of Monemvasia. The traditionally built hotel offers spacious rooms with private bathrooms, and most rooms look over the castle and the sea from their balconies. The reception opens from 08:00 to 24:00 and hands out maps and tourist information; free parking and free internet come with the stay.