Anafi, Greece: Island Guide, Beaches, Sights & Hotels
Anafi is a small, remote and barren island in the Cyclades, two hours' sail east of Santorini, 38 km² in size with about 350 inhabitants and a highest point at Mount Vigla, 579 metres. Life gathers in the hilltop capital of Chora, the tiny port of Agios Nikolaos and the beach hamlet of Klissidi. Anafi is one of the truly unspoilt Greek islands, known for its long sandy and naturist beaches, its clear, star-filled night sky and the huge Kalamos rock on the east side, crowned by the abandoned Kalamiotissa monastery. Ferries are few, so plan your return before you sail.
- Group
- Cyclades
- Area
- 38 km²
- Population
- about 350
- Highest
- Vigla 579 m
The island of Anafi
Anafi measures 38 km² and has about 350 inhabitants, which makes it one of the most isolated islands of the Cyclades. Its highest point is Mount Vigla at 579 metres. The island lies two hours' sail east of Santorini. After the volcanic eruption on Santorini, Anafi was covered by a thick layer of pumice, up to 25 metres deep, and this is one reason it never became a prosperous island. Anafi is mountainous, barren and short of water, but beautiful in its own way, with shades of red, white, grey and green. It is one of the truly unspoilt Greek islands, quiet outside high season and busier in summer, when tents once filled Klissidi Beach; free camping and naturism on that beach are now restricted.
The Chora and the villages
Anafi keeps its life in three places: the hilltop capital of Chora, the tiny port of Agios Nikolaos where the ferries dock, and the beach hamlet of Klissidi. A bus links the port with the Chora, and the rest of the island is walked or reached by the few local buses.
Chora (Anafi Town)
Chora, the capital, sits on a hill at 260 metres in the south-west of the island, above the port of Agios Nikolaos and connected to it by an asphalt road. Most of the island's people live here. It is one of the most beautiful and unspoilt choras in the Cyclades, a maze of narrow cobbled streets, whitewashed Cycladic houses with outdoor baking ovens, churches and squares, rising to the ruins of the old kastro. Cars are banned from most of the town, and the views over the island and the sea are spectacular. The sights of the Chora are set out in the Anafi sights guide.
Agios Nikolaos (the port)
Agios Nikolaos is the island's tiny port, on the south coast below the Chora, where the few ferries from Santorini arrive. It has a small harbour beach that is often deserted, and a bus climbs from here to the Chora. Simple rooms, among them Faros Rooms, stand on the hill above the port, described in the Anafi hotels & villas guide.
Klissidi
Klissidi (Klisidi) is the island's small beach resort, a short way east of the port, with a long sandy beach backed by trees, shrubs and a few large palms. It is the most developed spot on Anafi, which still means only a handful of rooms and tavernas. The road ends at the start of Klissidi, and beyond it footpaths lead east to the quieter and naturist beaches.
The beaches of Anafi
Anafi's beaches run along the south coast, from the sandy bay in front of Klissidi east to Roukounas, the island's main naturist beach at about 300 metres long, and on to the smaller coves. The port beach at Agios Nikolaos and a small beach below the Zoodochos Pigi monastery add more sand. Most are reached on foot, though a bus now runs from the Chora to Roukounas. The full run is set out in the Anafi beaches guide.
Sights of Anafi
The main sights of Anafi are the Chora, the ancient city and Venetian castle at Kastelli, and the two monasteries in the east. Kastelli holds the ruins of ancient Anaphe and its Venetian castle at 327 metres, with burial chambers, temple traces and a carved sarcophagus by the church of Panagia sto Dokari. The Zoodochos Pigi monastery stands on the site of an ancient temple of Apollo, and the abandoned Kalamiotissa monastery crowns the huge Kalamos rock on the east side. These are gathered in the Anafi sights guide.
Where to stay
Accommodation on Anafi is limited and gathers in the Chora, at Klissidi and around the port of Agios Nikolaos. The Chora keeps rooms and villas among the whitewashed lanes, Klissidi puts you by the beach, and the port suits early ferries. Compare the options in the Anafi hotels & villas guide, which covers the island's small hotels, rooms and self-catering studios.
Where to eat
Anafi serves its food in the tavernas of Klissidi and the Chora. At Klissidi you can eat at Margaritas, which cooks a short daily menu, and the Chora keeps a few cafeterias and tavernas such as Ta Plagia. Where to eat by area is set out in the Anafi restaurants guide.
Getting to Anafi
Anafi is reached by ferry, mostly from Santorini, two hours away, with about one boat a day in each direction in season. Ferries also run from Piraeus, the port of Athens, and from other Cycladic islands, calling at several ports on the way. There is no airport on Anafi, so most visitors fly to Santorini or Athens and continue by boat. Ferry schedules change from year to year and thin out outside high season, so check the current itinerary and plan your return before you sail.
