Rethymno, Crete, Greece
Rethymno is the smallest of Crete's 4 regional units and sits on the north coast between Chania and Heraklion. Rethymno wraps a Venetian old town and harbour, the palm-fringed beach of Preveli, the long bay of Plakias and the coves of Bali, with mountain villages rising inland toward Mount Psiloritis.
The Rethymno region
Rethymno stretches from the north coast up into the central mountains of Crete. The regional capital, Rethymno town, sits on the north shore, while the south coast faces the Libyan Sea at Preveli and Plakias. Between the two coasts rise the slopes of Mount Psiloritis, the highest mountain on Crete, with old stone villages such as Spili and Anogia. The region is compact, so travellers can reach a Venetian harbour, a palm beach and a mountain village within a single day's drive.
Rethymno Old Town and the Venetian harbour
Rethymno Old Town is one of the best-preserved Venetian old towns on Crete. The old town is a maze of narrow lanes below the Fortezza, the large Venetian fortress that crowns the headland above the sea. At its edge lies the small Venetian harbour, ringed by tavernas and guarded by an old lighthouse. Ottoman minarets, fountains and wooden-balconied houses stand among the Venetian buildings, so a walk through Rethymno crosses both periods of the town's past.
Preveli and the palm-beach coast
Preveli is a palm-lined beach on the south coast of the Rethymno region, where a river meets the Libyan Sea. The beach sits at the mouth of the Kourtaliotiko gorge, and a freshwater stream runs down through a natural palm grove to the sand. Above the beach stands the historic Preveli Monastery, set on the hillside overlooking the sea. Reach Preveli by a steep path from the car park or by excursion boat from Plakias or Agia Galini.
Plakias and the south coast
Plakias is a wide bay on the south coast of Rethymno, sheltered by steep hills and tamarisk trees. The village grew around a harbour at the west end of a very long beach, with more open sand and quieter, partly naturist stretches further along. A short drive east lie the coves of Damnoni. Settle in Plakias for the beach and use nearby Damnoni for a smaller, sheltered swim.
Bali and the north coast
Bali is a cluster of small coves and a fishing harbour on the north coast, off the main road between Rethymno and Heraklion. The village spreads around three little bays, with pebble and sand beaches, tavernas and a harbour that runs excursion boats. West along the same coast sits Panormos, an old fishing village with fish tavernas and Byzantine and Venetian ruins. Choose Bali for its coves or Panormos for its village character.
Mountain villages: Spili and Anogia
The Rethymno mountains hold two of the best-known villages on Crete, both above the coast. Spili is a green village on the road to the south coast, famous for a long Venetian fountain of stone lion heads that pour spring water into a trough. Anogia is a weaving and music village high on the slopes of Mount Psiloritis, a traditional Cretan settlement rebuilt after the war. Stop in Spili for its fountain and springs, or climb to Anogia for the mountain air and crafts.
Arkadi Monastery
Arkadi Monastery is a historic monastery in the hills southeast of Rethymno town. The monastery is a national symbol of Cretan resistance and stands behind a Venetian-style stone facade among cypress trees and olive groves. Its church and courtyard are open to visitors, and a small museum tells the monastery's story. Drive up to Arkadi as a half-day trip from the coast.