Rethymno Beaches: Preveli, Plakias & the Coasts of Central Crete

The Rethymno region holds beaches on both coasts of central Crete, from Preveli Palm Beach and the long bay of Plakias in the south to Bali, Panormos and the sandy strip east of Rethymno town in the north. This guide runs from the famous south-coast beaches around Preveli, Plakias and Triopetra to the Agia Galini bay, then north to Bali, Panormos, Episkopi Beach and Skaleta.

Region

Central Crete

Palm beach

Preveli

South coast

Plakias, Triopetra

North coast

Bali, Panormos

Preveli

Preveli Beach, also called Palm Beach, is one of the most spectacular beaches on Crete. It lies at the mouth of the Kourtaliotiko Gorge on the south coast, where the Megas river crosses the sand into the Libyan Sea. A palm grove lines the river, though a fire burned much of the forest in 2010. You reach it two ways. An unpaved road on the left after the old bridge leads down toward the beach. The paved road on the right passes the abandoned Lower Preveli Monastery to a paid car park, and from there many steps drop to the sand. The cove is busy in high season, and the views over the river and palms reward the climb.

Plakias

Plakias is a large sheltered bay on the south coast, 35 km south of Rethymno town. Steep hills ring the village, and tamarisk trees shade a long sandy beach that ranks among the largest in southern Crete. The old village and harbour sit on the west side. Near the harbour the beach is pebbly, and it improves as you walk east into quieter stretches, including a naturist section. The road in is good and parking is plentiful. In 1970 the village held ten buildings; hotels and seafront tavernas now fill it.

Triopetra

Triopetra is a long, wide sandy beach on the south coast, named for the three rocks that stand in the sea. Its name means three stones. Overhanging cliffs shade the east end, and a few tavernas rent a limited number of sunbeds and umbrellas. The main stretch has no facilities, and naturists use the edges. Over the hill a second sandy beach runs toward Agios Pavlos, giving kilometres of clean sand and clear water. You reach Triopetra on the road from Rethymno toward Spili, through rough mountain country with views of the Paximadia islands.

Bali

Bali is a cluster of small coves, beaches and tavernas on the north coast, 28 km east of Rethymno and 45 km west of Heraklion. It stands on the site of ancient Astale, on a small peninsula set back from the highway, so no road noise reaches the village. Three coves shape it. The first holds a small pebble beach, the second holds the old village with shops, a harbour and another beach, and the third, Paradise Beach, swims best. Day boats run from the harbour to Rethymno and Gramvousa. The monastery of Agios Ioannis Prodromos stands on the mountain across the highway.

Panormos

Panormos is a small fishing village and beach resort on the north coast, 22 km east of Rethymno. In Roman times it was the port of Axos. It keeps its old village character, with fish tavernas, mini-markets and a bakery. Three small beaches lie here: one in the harbour below a church set on a rock, and two more on the far side of the village, one busy with umbrellas and one quieter. The beaches are shallow and suit small children. Behind the village stand the remains of the 6th-century Agia Sofia basilica.

Agia Galini

Agia Galini is a charming, touristy village on the Bay of Messara on the south coast, about 1.5 hours by car from Heraklion. Its name means holy peace. Hotels and tavernas climb bougainvillea-covered steps up a steep hill. The village has souvenir shops, supermarkets and cash machines, and cosy terraces overlook a good beach. It stays calmer than Chersonissos or Malia while keeping its atmosphere. Preveli beach makes an easy day trip from here.

Agios Georgios

Agios Georgios is a set of small, quiet pebble beaches on the south coast, 7 km east of Agia Galini. A winding road of hairpins passes two churches on the way down, one dating from 1949. Paths lead from the road to several coves, some of them steep, and a few tavernas provide sunbeds and umbrellas. The beaches suit visitors staying in Agia Galini who want a change of scenery.

Episkopi Beach

Episkopi Beach is a wide sandy beach on the north coast that runs about 10 km from Episkopi toward Georgioupoli. It starts 2 km down the valley from Episkopi village. The east end allows naturism, and further along the first taverna sets out sunbeds and umbrellas beside a small supermarket. The beach is clean and quiet, with only light seaweed at times.

Skaleta

Skaleta is a beach resort on the coast east of Rethymno, 12 km from the town, in a row of resorts that includes Stavromenos, Adelianos Kampos and Platanes. It works as a seaside suburb of Rethymno, built mainly for beach holidays, with hotels, tavernas, bars and water sports along a long sandy beach. Buses to Rethymno run every half hour in season and take about 25 minutes. Small boats run coastal cave excursions from the front.