Where to Eat in Rethymno: Tavernas by Area
The best places to eat in the Rethymno region follow the geography: harbour tavernas in the Venetian old town, seafront fish tavernas at Plakias and Agia Galini, fishing-village kitchens at Bali and Panormos, and mountain tavernas at Spili. This guide maps out where to eat by area across central Crete so you can match a meal to where you are, on the coast or up in the hills.
- Region
- Central Crete
- For atmosphere
- Rethymno harbour
- For fish
- Panormos, Plakias
- For local food
- Spili, mountains
Rethymno harbour & old town
The Venetian harbour of Rethymno is the classic place to eat in the region. Its quay is one long stretch of tavernas that overlook the water and the lighthouse, best at sunset. Behind the harbour the alleys of the old town hold more tavernas and terraces among the Venetian houses and minarets, away from the seafront prices. Eat here for atmosphere and a walk before or after the meal.
Plakias & Agia Galini
Plakias and Agia Galini on the south coast are the places for a seafront fish meal. Both villages line their fronts with tavernas and terraces that look over the sea, and both keep an easy, relaxed feel. Agia Galini climbs a steep hill of bougainvillea-covered steps with cosy terraces along the way. Plakias spreads along its long bay. These make good stops after a day at Preveli or the gorges.
Bali & Panormos
Bali and Panormos on the north coast are fishing villages with fish tavernas by the water. Panormos, 22 km east of Rethymno, keeps its old character with fish tavernas around a harbour below a church on a rock. Bali sets its tavernas around three small coves on a quiet peninsula. Both suit a slow lunch by the sea between Rethymno and Heraklion.
Spili & the mountains
Spili and the mountain villages serve the region's most traditional food. Spili, at 450 m on the road to Agia Galini, has cobbled streets, kafenions and shops selling local herbs, and its cooler evenings make it a pleasant place to sit and eat. Anogia and the Amari valley add village tavernas built around local produce. Eat up here for Cretan mountain cooking rather than tourist menus.
Beach resorts east of town
The beach strip east of Rethymno, through Adelianos Kampos, Skaleta and Platanes, holds many tavernas and bars along the sand. This is casual resort dining, close to the hotels and the beach, with plenty of choice and easy prices. Skaleta sits about 12 km from Rethymno, so the town's harbour tavernas are a short bus ride away for a change of scene.